Changing temperatures mean a change of routine, no matter which part of the world you live in. Knowing a little about how skin functions in the winter, and tweaking a few habits, can make all the difference between a dull winter complexion and glowing radiance.

* Start the day with a hot shower… but before you get out switch to cold water for about fifteen seconds. Then turn up the heat a little, and down again to repeat the process for about two minutes. “Why would I want to do that?!?I hear you cry! This is a simple hydrotherapy technique which revitalizes the skin by stimulating the flow of blood through the body. It is both invigorating and highly beneficial to the skin. So even though you may not really enjoy the process, just think of the all the good it’s doing you!

* Use a good moisturizer. Choose a highly protective day cream which contains zinc oxide, and provides SPF30 protection to form a barrier against the elements. Creamier, water-in-oil emulsions are best. And don’t forget about your lips. Chapped lips are often the most noticeable problem for a lady in the winter. Use a highly moisturizing lip balm which provides a protective barrier, with vitamin E for good elasticity.

* Exfoliate at least twice a week. This will remove dead cells and allow the skin to absorb extra moisture. The oil which we all complain about in the Summer is no longer being produced because of cooler winter temperatures and central heating. Therefore the skin looses the water which should be retained in the lower dermis of the skin. This can lead to premature aging of the skin and fine lines, whilst your skin can appear puffy and grey. Nice!

* Drink a glass of hot water with lemon. This Chinese herbal remedy is a sure-fire method of energizing your body. It will de-tox your entire system, including the liver and gall bladder. This means that your body will be able to clean the blood faster to get rid of toxins responsible for bad skin.

*Simply sleep! Money can’t buy the benefits of a good nights?rest. Your oxygen levels will drop if you don’t get enough sleep, meaning that your cells will not be renewed as quickly. This is when degenerative skin aging sets in. Try to get seven, if not eight or nine hours of rest a night to achieve absolutely painless benefits. It’s ideal!

You love everything what you own at the very moment, but I - evrything that is yet to come, and you see this is the love that parts us

I was sent forth from the power,
and I have come to those who reflect upon me,
and I have been found among those who seek after me.
Look upon me, you (pl.) who reflect upon me,
and you hearers, hear me.
You who are waiting for me, take me to yourselves.
And do not banish me from your sight.
And do not make your voice hate me, nor your hearing.
Do not be ignorant of me anywhere or any time. Be on your guard!
Do not be ignorant of me.

For I am the first and the last.
I am the honored one and the scorned one.
I am the whore and the holy one.
I am the wife and the virgin.
I am and the daughter.
I am the members of my mother.
I am the barren one
and many are her sons.
I am she whose wedding is great,
and I have not taken a husband.
I am the midwife and she who does not bear.
I am the solace of my labor pains.
I am the bride and the bridegroom,
and it is my husband who begot me.
I am the mother of my father
and the sister of my husband,
and he is my offspring.
I am the slave of him who prepared me.
I am the ruler of my offspring.
But he is the one who [begot me] before the time
on a birthday.
And he is my offspring [in] (due) time,
and my power is from him.
I am the staff of his power in his youth,
[and] he is the rod of my old age.
And whatever he wills happens to me.
I am the silence that is incomprehensible
and the idea whose remembrance is frequent.
I am the voice whose sound is manifold
and the word whose appearance is multiple.
I am the utterance of my name.

Why, you who hate me, do you love me,
and you hate those who love me?
You who deny me, confess me,
and you who confess me, deny me.
You who tell the truth about me, lie about me,
and you who have lied about me, tell the truth about me.
You who know me, be ignorant of me,
and those who have not known me, let them know me.

For I am knowledge and ignorance.
I am shame and boldness.
I am shameless; I am ashamed.
I am strength and I am fear.
I am war and peace.
Give heed to me.
I am the one who is disgraced and the great one.

Give heed to my poverty and my wealth.
Do not be arrogant to me when I am cast out upon the earth,
[and] you will find me in [those that] are to come.
And do not look [upon] me on the dung-heap
nor go and leave me cast out,
and you will find me in the kingdoms.
And do not look upon me when I am cast out among those who
are disgraced and in the least places,
nor laugh at me.
And do not cast me out among those who are slain in violence.
But I, I am compassionate and I am cruel.
Be on your guard!
Do not hate my obedience
and do not love my self-control.
In my weakness, do not forsake me,
amd do not be afraid of my power.
For why do you despise my fear
and curse my pride?

But I am she who exists in all fears
and strength in trembling.
I am she who is weak,
and I am well in a pleasant place.
I am senseless and I am wise.

Why have you hated me in your counsels?
For I shall be silent among those who are silent,
and I shall appear and speak.
Why then have you hated me, you Greeks?
Because I am a barbarian among [the] barbarians?
For I am the wisdom [of the] Greeks
and the knowledge of [the] barbarians.
I am the judgment of [the] Greeks and the barbarians.
[I] am the one whose image is great in Egypt
and the one who has no image among the barbarians.
I am the one who is hated everywhere
and who has been loved everywhere.
I am the one whom they call Life,
and you have called Death.
I am the one whom they call Law,
and you have called Lawlessness.
I am the one whom you have pursued,
and I am the one whom you have seized.
I am the one you have scattered,
and you have gathered me together.
I am the one before whom you have been ashamed,
and you have been shameless to me.
I am she who does not keep festival,
and I am she whose festivals are many.
I, I am godless,
and I am one whose God is great.
I am the one whom you have reflected upon,
and you have scorned me.
I am unlearned,
and they learn from me.
I am the one whom you have despised,
and you reflect upon me.
I am the one whom you have hidden from,
and you appear to me.
But whenever you hide yourselves,
I myself will appear.
For [whenever] you [appear],
I myself [will hide] from you.
Those who have [...] to it [...] senselessly [...].

Take me [... understanding] from grief,
and take me to yourselves from understanding [and] grief.
And take me to yourselves from places that are ugly and in ruin,
and rob from those which are good even though in ugliness.
Out of shame, take me to yourselves shamelessly;
and out of shamelessness and shame, upbraid my members
in yourselves.
And come foreward to me, you who know me
and you who know my members,
and establish the great ones among the small first creatures.
Come foreward to childhood,
and do not despise it because it is small and it is little.
And do not turn away greatness in some parts from the
smallnesses,
for the smallnesses are known from the greatnesses.

Why do you curse me and honor me?
You have wounded and you have had mercy.
Do not separate me from the first ones whom you have [known].
[And] do not cast anyone [out nor] turn anyone away
[...] turn away and [... know] him not.
[... him].
What is mine [...].
I know the [first ones] and those after them [know] me.

But I am the mind of [...] and the rest of [...].
I am the knowledge of my inquiry,
and the finding of those who seek after me,
and the command of those who ask of me,
and the power of the powers in my knowledge
of the angels, who have been sent at my word,
and of the gods in their seasons by my counsel,
and of the spirits of every man who exists with me,
and of the women who dwell within me.
I am the one who is honored, and who is praised,
and who is despised scornfully.
I am peace,
and war has come because of me.
I am an alien and a citizen.
I am the substance and the one who has no substance.

Those who are without association with me are ignorant of me,
and those who are in my substance are the ones who know me.
Those who are close to me have been ignorant of me,
and those who are far away from me are the ones who have
known me.
On the day when I am close to [you],
[you] are far away [from me],
[and] on the day when I [am far away] from you,
[I am close] to you.

[I am ...] within.
[I am ...] of the natures.
I am [...] of the creation of the spirits.
[...] request of souls.
[I am] control and the uncontrollable.
I am the union and the dissolution.
I am the abiding and the dissolving.
I am the one below,
and they come up to me.
I am the judgment and the acquittal.
I, I am sinless,
and the root of sin derives from me.
I am lust in (outward) appearance,
and interior self-control exists within me.
I am the hearing that is attainable to everyone
and the speech that cannot be grasped.
I am a mute who does not speak,
and great is the multitude of my words.

Hear me in gentleness, and learn of me in roughness.
I am she who cries out,
and I am cast out on the face of the earth.
I prepare the bread and my mind within.
I am the knowledge of my name.
I am one who cries out,
and I listen.
I appear and [...] walk in [...] seal of my [...].
I am [...] the defense [...].
I am the one who is called Truth,
and iniquity [...].

You honor me [...] and you whisper against [me].
[...] victorious over them.
Judge then before they give judgment against you,
because the judge and the partiality exist in you.
If you are condemned by this one, who will acquit you?
Or if you are acquitted by him who will be able to detain you?
For what is inside of you is what is outside of you,
and the one who fashions you on the outside
is the one who shaped the inside of you.
And what you see outside of you,
you see outside of you;
it is visible and it is your garment.

Hear me, you hearers,
and learn of my words, you who know me.
I am the hearing that is attainable to everything;
I am the speech that can not be grasped.
I am the name of the sound
and the sound of the name.
I am the sign of the letter
and the designation of the division.
And I [...].
[...] light [...].
[...] hearers [...] to you
[...] the great power.
And [...] will not move the name.
[...] to the one who created me.
And I will speak his name.

Look then at his words
and all the writings which have been completed.
Give heed then, you hearers
and you also, the angels and those who have been sent,
and you spirits who have arisen from the dead.
For I am the one who alone exists,
and I have no one who will judge me.

For many are the pleasant forms which exist in
numerous sins,
and incontinencies,
and disgraceful passions,
and fleeting pleasures,
which (men) embrace until they become sober
and go up to their resting-place.
And they will find me there,
and they will live,
and they will not die again.

” ‘Thunder Perfect Mind’ is a marvelous, strange poem. It speaks in the voice of a feminine divine power, but one that unites all opposites. One that is not only speaking in women, but also in all people. One that speaks not only in citizens, but aliens, it says, in the poor and in the rich. It’s a poem which sees the radiance of the divine in all aspects of human life, from the sordidness of the slums of Cairo or Alexandria, as they would have been, to the people of great wealth, from men to women to slaves. In that poem, the divine appears in every, and the most unexpected, forms….

‘Thunder Perfect Mind’ may have been written in Egypt. It’s probably written by somebody who knows the traditions of Isis, knows the traditions of the Jews. It shows that this movement grew up in a world in which Jewish, Egyptian, Greek, Roman traditions are mingled and mixing and well-known to many sophisticated people. All you had to do is travel around a city, like Carnac, and you saw all these images, and these various religions and these various cultures mixing.’

Prada 캠페인에 나오는 daria 와는 두번에 걸쳐 작업을 진행했다.

이친구..정말 지금 제일 잘나가는 빅모델이지만, 전직 초등학교 선생님에 캐나다 출신 약간은 나이를먹어 남과 함께 살아가는 법을 터득한듯한… 괜찮은 친구였다.

그리고 무엇보다, 정말 이쁘다. 앞에서면 말문이 막힐 정도로…

이 친구 언제 또 만날런지… 요즘은 그런 스쳐가는 인연에 생각을 많이 하는 시기인가 보다. 왜인지? 그건 나도 모른다.

PADDINGTON BOULING HANDBAG

PADDINGTON SHOPPING HANDBAG

PADDINGTON SHOPPING METALLISE’ HANDBAG

CLASSIC PADDINGTON HANDBAG

Centre partings are for the free of spirit. Wear one and be naturally beautiful.

For me, the side parting is evocative of high – maintenance, head – tilting women – slightly harsh, perhaps, but all that hair – flicking just isn’t me. In contrast, mirroring the natural symmetry of the face, the middle parting allows a direct gaze that berams strength and self – assurance. My favourite examples today are Kate Moss and Chloe Sevigny – all middle – parted women with a distinctive sense of style.

My own dedication to straight – down – the – middle hair is not some desperate attempt to hold on to my youth, but more a question of personal taste. Oozing understatement and pared – down sophistication, the centre parting has a cool, natural, undone edge that really can’t be bettered.

Ask any hairdresser and they will tell you that a centre parting is a bad idea unless you’re one of those girls blessed with perfect symmetry. Let’s face it, there are very few who are (Kate Moss alone spring to my mind), so straight line drawn down the middle of your head is probably going to make things worse. The utter perfection such as non – matching eyebrows or uneven lips, so that, at worst, you can end up looking like a Picasso – never a good look. In case of a wonky face, a side parting will do the trick.

It’s time to make a real choice and take sides.

Julia Stegner

Eugenia Volodina

Raquel Zimmermann

Natasha Poly

Lily Donaldson

Caroline Trentini

Marta Berzkalna

A girl worth a million. A million per year, that is. Her name is Marija Vujovic, she’s twenty and up till a year ago she lived with her parents and brother in a small country people don’t talk about much – Montenegro. Now she makes her home in New York and is a hot item among leading fashion mags. She works every day on the sets of the world’s biggest fashion photographers and that’s precisely the way she earns those fabulous sums. All money she’s not spending at the present, surely not to go on vacation. She doesn’t have the time, she says. As soon as she gets a few days off she flies back home to see her family, with whom she’s very close. Even if she hates planes, which as it is she must take all too often for work.

We met her in the New York studio where the spring/summer Max Mara campaign was being shot. A gorgeous girl, reserved and quiet (no cellphone addict is she), very simple and joyful. With her wonderful nature and top-notch professionalism, she’s a favorite among photographers and stylists.

Is it true you never take a day off?

Every once in a while, a day or two. I adore stretching out on the beach, in silence. The one I prefer is in the Hamptons, a place I can get to easily enough from New York to spend the weekend – If there’s no traffic, it’s just two hours by car. I go there whenever I have a day off. I don’t care for long trips, the only one I take with pleasure is the territory long one home to Montenegro.

How do you spend your day at the beach?

I get up late (finally!). I don’t think about what clothes to put on and start my day with a hearty breakfast. Then I head for the beach. In east Hampton they go on forever, are practically deserted despite the houses built right on the dunes. It’s so restful and beautiful. There are no coffee shops and restaurants, no neighbors with music blaring on the radio. Because there are no neighbors, or they’re quite far away. So you bring a small picnic lunch and a book, you observe the waves and the seagulls soaring. Everything is limpid, clean, discreet. The way I like it.

What about the evening?

When my boyfriend is around – he too is from Montenegro, he studies in New York – we choose a good restaurant yet not one of the ones that are really in. The laundry, for instance. It’s a local family restaurant, in town but with a small garden. There are lots of kids, it’s cheerful, the food is great while not too expensive.

Don’t you hang out with the New York fashion crowd, so very much on the scene in the Hamptons?

No, I know a lot of people have houses here, Calvin Klein and Donna Karan too, but nearly everyone holes up at home. The best way to experience the Hamptons is to rent a place of your own. There are some very lovely ones, small even, in the middle of the woods. Almost everybody does this, because there aren’t many hotels and they’re always full. Otherwise you have to go down the coast toward Montauk, where you find a series of resorts – not so elitist – where you can stay also just for a few days. I don’t care for five-stars (not even when working), I prefer something simpler.

What do you suggest?

The east Hampton house, in town but with a nice garden, swimming-pool and gym. From there you can go shopping on foot. It’s fun because there are the same stores you find in New York, just smaller, one next to the other. In half an hour you can hit them all.

Which is your favorite?

A small drugstore where there’s a little of everything. American folk items, hippie type jewelry. It’s name is the Victorian Shop. And then Calipso, for something a bit different in a swimsuit or pair of pants.

Anything interesting to visit?

The house where Jackson Pollock lived and worked for years. Now it’s open to visitors. It’s very interesting because it’s still intact, exactly the way it was back in the 1950s.

What’s in your suitcase?

My jeans – could never be without – a sweatshirt, pajamas and beauty-case. And a picture of my family.

Confess your beauty secret for feeling and looking great while on vacation.

I use only a lot of moisturizing cream, morn and night, plus lip balm for my lips. And of course a high protection factor sunscreen for the beach. That’s it. But the real secret for enjoying your vacation is to be relaxed and happy. Then any place in the world becomes beautiful.

MARIJA’S FAVORITE RESTAURANTS
• Laundry, 31 Race Lane, East Hampton, ph. 631-32431999
• Farmhouse, 341 Montauk Highway, ph. 631-324 8585
• Nick & Toni’s, 136 North Main St., ph 631-3243550
• Della Femmina, 99 North Main St., East Hampton, ph. 631-32966666

HOTELS
• 1770 House, 143 Main St., East Hampton, ph. 631-3241770
• Mill House Inn, 31 North Main St., East Hampton, ph. 631-3249766
• Maidstone Arms Inn, 207 Main St., ph. 631-3245006

Miss Sixties

If there’s a big make-up trend this Autumn, then it’s a return to the 1960s for inspiration. Make-up artists turned back the clock at many shows and in true 60s style, the eyes took centre stage. Alexander McQueen sited the Hitchcock heroine Kim Novak as one of his main influences and his make-up maestro added a slick of black to the outside of models’ eyes and beautifully turned up lashes instantly re-created the screen siren’s simmering sex appeal (left).

Over at Dolce & Gabbana, girls such as Gemma Ward and Heather Marks took on a Twiggy-esq wide-eyed look with huge curling lashes.

Playing It Straight

When it comes to hair, for the past season or so, it has all been about curls and waves, but in a sudden reversal of fortune, it’s great to go straight. It may not seem long since girls were slaves to their straightening irons, but this time the look is fuss-free and minimal, designed to set off the new fashionably pale complexion. This new look was encapsulated perfectly at the Missoni show (left). Here neatly slicked, centre-parted hair hung flat against girls’ heads, their faces illuminated only with the subtlest shades of make-up.

At Chanel’s Paris show, similar centre-parted mains were long, slick and cut to finish with sharp, blunt ends.

The Whiter Shade Of Pale

Following on from the trend for silvery highlights on sun-kissed skin that prevailed this Summer, now make-up gurus have turned their attention to white, for a Winter of alabaster skin and even paler accents.

Nowhere was this better exemplified than at Marni (left) where models appeared purer than the driven snow with natural lips and dusty white eyeshadow above and below the eyes.

And at Gucci, ice queens like Carmen Kass stepped out on to the runway with ghostly complexions and the palest lips, their eyes set off by black eye-liner and a trace of silvery blue shadow underneath.